Wednesday, March 05, 2008

Sailing the BVI--part 1

On a clear day in St Croix, one can see the islands of St Thomas and St John the other US Virgin Islands (USVI). They look like blue-gray shadows on the horizon. Most days they lie hidden behind the clouds. St Croix feels isolated that way unlike the other USVIs and the British Virgin Islands (BVI) which float in close proximity to one another.

We have learned that sailing charters and charter rental are common in the BVI because the 60 something islands and cays that make up the BVI lie so close to one another, except for Aenegada (in the far north). Sailing charters to the BVI (or the USVI for that matter) are not common on St Croix. At present only one company offers sails to the BVI. A weekend ago, we tested the waters.

On Friday evening we boarded a 45' catamaran, Kindred Spirit, for a 4 hour plus trip to the BVI with Norman Island as our first stop. About half way across the open ocean of the Caribbean Sea, the lights of St Croix dim and the lights of the other USVI and BVI are distant glows. One feels a bit alone, especially in the darkness with high black waves crashing against the boat's hull. A disquieting feeling that yields when some invisible line is crossed and the ship sails into the tranquil waters of the BVIs.

Tired, ocean spray splashed, and recovering from malaise and a Dramamine hangover, we are encourage to disembark and dingy over to the William Thornton, named for the self-taught architect of the U.S. Capitol Building and BVI resident, better known as Willy T's a permanently moored freighter serving as tavern. I think its somewhere before midnight, but my time line is fuzzy due to seasickness and aforementioned meds.

Willy T's is infamous for offering free tee shirts to female patrons who walk the plank topless. This publicity campaign was recently halted after many years due to liability issues. The crowd we found aboard would probably have done a group plank splash if allowed. I am only certain that the throng of wasted merry makers suffered either a group wretch later and most certainly a group hangover in the morning. Willy T's served canned beer and shots doled out in a wooden ski while Michael Jackson and AC/DC blared from the speakers. Perhaps the Thunderstruck anthems in homage to the two 20 something Aussie bartenders that seemed to be in charge of the ship. We stayed till near close, people watching, until we motored back to our boat, climbed in our berth and promptly fell asleep.

I don't have any photos of Willy T's but they do have a website which features the ski shot. I did not see the naked woman who seems to be waiting on patrons in the web photos. http://www.williamthornton.com/more.html

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