Bad Cloud Coming

A snap shot of this afternoon's weather. Had we viewed a scene like this outside our window in South Georgia someone would have remarked, "there's a bad cloud coming up."
As ominous as this cloud appears, the weather here is quite calm, slightly breezy, slightly cooler than usual. Perhaps not perfect tourist weather, but a relaxing change for a local. Then again, I'm indoors not on the beach or heaven forbid in a small fishing vessel.
Light and clouds can be deceptive here. One can see rain miles before it arrives. Certain areas of the island tend to glow at sunrise and sunset. I am astounded at the number of rainbows I see here. I started this morning off with a large double rainbow off to the west behind our pool. St Croix is not a flat sandy strip, but slightly mountainous. I guess the reflective qualities of the ocean and the angles of the mountains yield these startling vistas. I can't explain the physics, I merely revel in the views. Golden clouds or dark ones, both demand one stop and take notice, if not a photograph to share as I did.

Beautiful views at HaypennyRest.com

Bush Men

As I stated a couple of posts ago, I'm enduring home renovations. In addition to the dust, mess and drain on my personal time, I've discovered another unforeseen issue. No it's not hidden costs or faulty work, it's contractors and subcontractors who refuse to use indoor plumbing. That's right, they'd rather pee in the bush.

The first workman I spied walking 20 feet across the road to relieve himself in the undeveloped lot between my neighbor and myself, I dismissed as slightly odd. I was just glad my neighbor was not at home at the time. However, more workman from other firms continued his trek. The countertop installers spoke with me about their preference for the "bush" the local term for woods/vegetation. I was not interviewing them, mind you, they just waxed philosophic when asking me to show them the bathroom. They said they'd prefer to use the bush rather than the toilet. One man said he liked it better because urinating in the wild is "more free and breezy." Well the trade winds have picked up, so I guess a break to relieve one's self and cool one's business after a hot day of work is refreshing.

This isn't the first time I've encountered this preference. I once had a college biology professor who informed the class that he situated potted plants and a large ficus tree in his toilet to mimic the outdoors. That was in Georgia. Since I last lived in Washington, DC one had few opportunities for "bush breaks" and it would be a ticketed offense, besides.

Oh well, the repairs are nearly done and for the remaining few days, I'll simply avert my eyes.

At HaypennyRest.com our plumbing works just fine.

A.M. no Water

My cistern transfer valves. The booger on the left gave us all the trouble this morning.

Guests arrived yesterday and they are everything one could hope for in guests: pleasant, personable, here to explore St Croix. I thanked my lucky stars. These same stars must be slightly out of line because we all arose this morning to discover air not water in the plumbing pipes.

I raced downstairs to transfer the cistern settings. We have a double tank cistern: when one tank goes low, transfer to the other tank. We have plenty of water right now thanks to ample rain and a back up water delivery made last month. I entered the pump room expecting to solve this problem in 30 seconds and my guests would never be inconvenienced. But my lucky stars had other ideas.

Immobile valves. The cistern valve, that looks something like a garden hose faucet, refused to budge. I begged, I pleaded, I employed a wrench and WD-40. Nothing. Frantic, I called for my husband who was attempting to dress for work. He plodded downstairs, requested larger wrenches, strained and cursed. Nothing.

I phoned our plumber at 6:30 a.m. who answered, arrived an hour later, employed a very big wrench, loosened the valve and only departed once all the pipes were tested. A big relief that arrived only after our guests had departed for an early morning scuba dive at Salt River. I can only hope they showered last night. I can only hope they are forgiving.

I'm offering them a discount on today, but this doesn't make up for the inconvenience or make me any less embarrassed. Word to those seeking to operate a bed and breakfast: be prepared, be meticulous, be obsessive about the details or you may wake up with your stars out of line.

Blessing of the Pets

*Gus and Chuck's certificates. Note Saint Francis is petting a 'possum.

This past weekend sandwiched between veterinary visits, SEC football and kitchen renovation prep, our best received a special blessing in honor of Saint Francis of Assisi.
Holy Cross Catholic Church in historic downtown Christiansted, St Croix USVI hosted the blessing in part as a fund raising event for their school, St Mary's.
In the church courtyard under tents animals a variety of animals awaited their blessing. In addition to dogs, cats (in carriers), I notice hamsters, turtles and a donkey.
The deacon gave a brief biography of Saint Francis of Assisi then lead a special prayer for the pets. We then processed to the outdoor altar on the church steps where the deacon sprinkled holy water on the pets. My cat and dog were blessed together. Both behaved well, however my dog, not a typical drooler, due to the hot day approached the deacon with a full muzzle of slobber. He got blessed anyway.
I don't know what the official party line is on pet blessing. I'm sure many people find it frivolous. In my humble opinion, though, if the tenets of Christianity are to refrain from judging others and to love unconditionally--our pets are more forgiving and forgetting than we are. They abide each day by the golden rule. Surely they warrant one day of blessing.

Enjoy a beautiful day at HaypennyRest.com

Island Remodeled

Until now I refrained from discussing the darker side of St Croix. After the past two weeks (and the thought of the week upcoming) I can no longer remain mum about St Croix's scary secret: heinous kitchen and baths.

Hurricane Hugo is the historical benchmark for modern day St Croix. Islanders refer to events as either before or after Hugo. The hurricane ravaged St Croix in 1989 resulting in widespread damage. I must then infer that some manufacturer of white, press-board, pre-fab kitchens flooded the Virgin Islands market with their wares, because the vast majority of homes I've toured, viewed or visited feature these '80s babies.

Forget the cosmetic (a difficult task for the current HGTV generation) and focus on the functional. We live in a humid maritime climate. If sea air demolishes electronics in a scant few years (and yes, it does) how did anyone think press board would stand the test of time. Poseidon snickers at every dilapidated vanity, dysfunctional door and rotting unit.

I am enduring a kitchen remodel. Yes, I welcome the finished result. However, like all cosmetic improvements we undertake be it exercising on the treadmill, submitting to foil highlighting, or suffering any sort of depilatory procedure--the end result is worth it, the during part just sucks.

Permanent Move Visit

Permanent Move Visit--familiar phrase? Not to me, not until I moved to the US Virgin Islands, that is. And now that I am very familiar with this concept, I highly recommend it for anyone dreaming of an escape to the Caribbean for any lengthy duration.
A permanent move visit (PMV) is a relocation test run. Families stay perhaps a couple of weeks, perhaps a month to sample living on island. Vacation rentals, like Haypenny Rest, are ideal for this type of visit. Rather than the tourist atmosphere of a hotel, by staying a private home PMVers gain the residential perspective. Home stays offer kitchens and thus the option of cooking and food shopping.
PMVers learn that St Croix, St Thomas and St John grocery prices are an estimated 25 percent higher than stateside. PMVers discover life in the left lane and the necessity of a car. Other than within the towns of Christiansted and Fredericksted, St Croix is not pedestrian friendly, St Thomas even less so, in my humble opinion. Hills and traffic inhibit scooter or moped transport on these islands as well. Unfortunately, a car is a must.
Too many souls relocate to the Caribbean without researching the quality of life beyond the picture postcard palm trees and blue seas. The two examples I named merely scratch the surface of adaptations that must be made. For anyone fantasizing about life in the Virgin Islands, a PMV is a smart move.

Want to try a PMV? Contact HaypennyRest.

Lost in Translation

I've learned a few lessons in this endeavor to start and succeed as a bed and breakfast owner and I'm only just into the high season here in St Croix, Virgin Islands. I'll summarize my experience thus far this week, a minor break from my lyric posts in ode to the natural beauty of the Caribbean.

I'll start with the most important less learned thus far: miscommunication. Miscommunication affects my business far more than I would have anticipated. Miscommunication necessitated a change in room reservation policy. No longer will I allow a friend or family member to book a reservation for someone else. Gift certificates yes, but actual reservations, no. See the location mom or your best man thinks is great may not be the guest's cup of tea. No matter that I tell mom or your best man that my b&b is ocean view not water front (a significant detail most definitely reflected in our lower price) when guest arrives and finds stepping out of the door and into the ocean not an option, well, complaining to me is much easier than complaining to mama.

I learned that miscommunication arises with more frequency and tenacity that I would have ever imagined. Maybe vacation encourages this trait. Vacation is supposed to be special and wonderful--an opportunity to escape your daily grind. We need it to be perfect--an unachievable goal.

What is achievable here is beautiful scenery, unique culture, tranquil ocean breezes and if you can stop yourself from analyzing it to much, what could be more perfect?

Relax at Haypenny Rest.

Herman Wouk

I read "Don't Stop the Carnival" after moving the Caribbean and starting a single-suite bed and breakfast. Had I read it before hand, maybe I would have hesitated. Maybe I would have dismissed his '60s tale of strange characters and the havoc they wreak as fiction. Drama, yes. Fiction? Not quite. Wouk's work, dated and inflated though it may be, is a primer for someone dreaming of starting a business in the Caribbean.
Worrying over rains and empty cisterns, goods shipments, and odd contractors is par for the course here. Retiring here is one thing. Retiring to run a business, something else entirely. I met a resident who made just that plan and now has more business than "you can shake a stick at." Good for the pocketbook, bad for afternoons planned on the beach blanket.
From what I understand Wouk lived on St Thomas at some point. I don't think he managed a hotel as his protagonist Norman Paperman flees New York City to do. I won't spoil it, but Norman's daydream doesn't quite turn out as he imagined. Quite a bit of work is involved. Work. The word doesn't disappear once one crosses the southerly latitudes. The scenery helps, though.

Seven Highlights of Scenic Old San Juan

Old San Juan is only seven blocks by seven blocks. In that small space; however, a wealth of museums, lovely architecture, delicious foods and scenic vistas abound. Here are 7 highlights of our Old San Juan walking tour.

Enjoy carillo, the local food fare. Some of our favorites: mallorcas, a wonderful ham and cheese on puffed bread sprinkled with powdered sugar and plantain tamales with pork wrapped in banana leaves. Yum!

Sip the delicious yet strong local coffee while people watching in one of the many shady parks known as plazas.

Dine on tapas at El Convento. The former convent and oldest hotel in Old San Juan's room rates may burst your budget, but tapas in the courtyard dining area are both tasty and reasonably priced.

Tour one of the many museums of local arts, culture and history. Our pick the museum of the family showcases family life of Old San Juan in the 1800s. Cost: free!

Shop for local and regional crafts. Yes, mass-manufactured goodies can be found in several tourist shops, but a seek out the stores offering unique finds such as wood carvings, jewelry and handicrafts.

The wide-open horizon of the Atlantic Ocean from El Morro is worth the hike on a hot, sunny September day. Refresh yourself with a Piragua, the Puerto Rican snowcone.

Or just browse the side streets and quiet courtyards behind the doors of Old San Juan. A beautiful and welcoming city.

Puerto Rico--a peek inside

About 40 minutes from St Croix as American Eagle flies lies the historic gateway to the Caribbean, Puerto Rico. While I've visited the San Juan International Airport many times whist awaiting connections to other destinations, I recently enjoyed a few days on the island herself. An experience definitely worth the wait and most probably another blog post.

Did you know Puerto Rico is the most popular Caribbean destination? The diverse island offers Atlantic and Caribbean beaches, a large rain forest, delicious food, beautiful architecture and the U.S. economy with a distinctly Latin flavor.

We visited in September: the height of the hurricane season and nadir for tourist season. Even so, a cruise ship docked in Puerto Rico during our stay. A behemoth from which camera-clad passengers in shorts trickled. I've never cruised before. I'm waiting for the pet-friendly cruises to begin. Did you know that only the QE2 offers a pet-friendly cruise?

The photo is a shot of one of the watch turrets of El Morro the massive, ancient Spanish fort that essentially surrounds Old San Juan, our home base. Did you know this particular blog was just a tease for more to come? I warned you at the beginning.

Small delights

A key ingredient to enjoying life here is reveling in the small delights. When you live on an island that is less than 30 miles long and about 7 miles wide, new opportunities are, well, confined. Unless one intends to fly or sail away regularly, inspiration must be found at home.
I am surprised, consistently by the slight details: the light patterns made by clouds passing over the mountains and the light affecting color of the sea out my window which changes day to day sometimes reflecting astounding shades of turquoise, gold and even pink.
I am both enthralled and vexed by the local flora. Beautiful flowers will blossom for a day then disappear. Tan tan trees will affix themselves to any surface, root and grow, despite all eradication efforts.
Often people travel to the Caribbean, to experience the undersea creatures. I find the terrestrial fauna just as fascinating. Take the little visitor in the photo. Lizards dart and dash about the flower beds, hang suspended from the exterior window screens and sometimes find themselves inside the house, where my cat Gus hunts them with skill. This little guy surprised me on the clothes line, resting atop a pillow sham, tinier than a clothes pin.
No, he's not the latest movie, or die-for restaurant, or must-have purse, but a bit of wonder nonetheless and inspiration enough for this post.

Come enjoy the small details at HaypennyRest.

Sour Times

This blog is dedicated to the over-productive key lime tree on my property. We juice them, flavor with them, I even clean with them and I'm barely able to keep up with the dozens of new fruits that appear each morning.
My goal is to squeeze about 50 each day this week and freeze the juice. Maybe then I'll catch up to the little key lime tree that could.

I read in A Short History of the West Indies by Parry, Sherlock and Maingot (purchased at the Whim bookstore on island) that the majority of the fruits thought of as tropical are not native to the Caribbean. According to the book, the only native plants of significant importance were cassava and tobacco. Coconuts and carambola fruits arrived from South Asia. The Spanish brought bananas, figs, the economic juggernaut sugar cane and all the citrus, including, I suppose, my key lime.
While it will not taste nearly the same for those enduring a frosty morning in the extreme northeast, enjoy a nod to sunshine with our favorite lime concoction.

4 key limes (the grocery green variety can sub)
1 cup sugar to taste (probably will need less for less pungent grocery limes)
water

Crush limes in a food chopper then transfer to a standard size blender
Add sugar
Add water to nearly full
Blend until smooth as possible
Strain into pitcher

Serve over ice with a shot of Cruzan Rum, if you like. After all the Cruzan Rum tag line is "so have a drink today."

Limes available while they last at HaypennyRest.

the Current

St Croix spend Friday night in the dark. An island-wide power outage occurred sometime Friday afternoon. Power was restored at varying times depending on location. Ours clicked back on sometime around 9 p.m. (when we'd decided to go to bed) but a friend on the west end of the island said hers was not restored until 10 p.m.

Power outages arise intermittently on St Croix. The local reference is the "current" is out or gone or off. Our current is usually unaffected. We lived previously on the northwest side of the island and current outages happened more frequently than I liked. A long-time resident of the east end of the island said his current goes out once a week. Embellishment? Perhaps, but I tend to think that St Croix exemplifies most locations of natural beauty in that neatly-ordered conveniences take a back seat to nature. With beautiful views and beautiful weather, a few hours in the dark is a small price to pay. Besides the stars and fireflies provided us an evening of sparkling entertainment.

Come visit us at HaypennyRest, where, yes, we have a back up generator.

the Fruit Man

The fruit man pays a scheduled visit to my husband’s workplace bringing fresh fruit for sale. I am uncertain of the frequency of his visits, but I believe he comes less often than the pate` man (who is actually an elderly woman) but more often than the fish man.

After weeks of missed opportunities, we finally struck a deal with the fruit man. For months papayas have flourished in our yard enjoyed only by the birds and one guest who found them delicious. I confess, I’m not crazy about papaya because they remind me too much of cantaloupe, the only fruit (until now) that I do not like. My husband falls into the cantaloupe category, too. I must further digress and share a cantaloupe story.

At a former workplace in Knoxville, TN (insert obligatory yelp of either ‘Rocky Top’ or ‘Go VOLs’), a kind volunteer brought cantaloupe to my supervisor, fellow coworker and me. All of us, it turned out, abhor cantaloupe. We left the melons in the kitchen, then moved them towards the door, then overwhelmed by the musky perfumed aroma that seemed to permeate out office to the point of nausea, my boss put them out the door. There’s something intimidating about a fruit that can smell you out of your office.

Back to the fruit man. We have sour orange, key lime, grapefruit, carambola (star fruit) and sugar apples. We hoped to trade any of these (we have an ample supply) for bananas. Nope, the fruit man only wants papayas. He has everything else. Of course when he makes his first visit, none of the papayas are ready. Only three can be found and one of those was maimed by birds during a three day visit to Puerto Rico.

These bananas were given to me by our house painter, CM Painting. He traded us for key limes and sour orange. These bananas are half the size of the average US grocery store variety, but wonderfully sweet. Now, we’re tasked with eating them all.

Flew the Coop

Gone a week on a mini trip to Puerto Rico. The highlights will appear in an upcoming blog, I promise. I intend to publish with greater consistency and frequency whether anyone reads regularly or not.
Before departing for said trip, the following event occurred. A yellow breast, the Territorial bird of the Virgin Islands, flew into our sliding glass door and tumbled violently to the ground. I thought he was dead but discovered that, though bleeding, he survived. I created a nest out of a fruit container and began feeding him sugar water. At first he drank, eyes closed, intently but feebly imbibing every spoonful. After a few minutes, he regained not only consciousness but gumption and took off in our kitchen soaring up to perch on the rafters of our West Indian ceiling. At least a half hour or more later we managed to shoo him back out the door and into secure, shady branches of an umbrella tree. (I'm trying to post as a video, but haven't quite figured it out yet. . .)

Lesson learned, don't nurse a bird in the house.

Plan your own birdwatching excursion at HaypennyRest.com

Low Season Blues

Check out Chuck, bone in tow, chillin’ at Haypenny Beach. Yes, I know I’m an incorrigible pet promoter as bad as a new grandparent shoving baby photos in the faces of coworkers and retail clerks. Can I help it that my mongrel is so photogenic?

I’m suffering from the low season blues. I assume that many other inn owners, restaurateurs, sailboat tour operators, etc are feeling the same. Beautiful beaches, sunny skies, calm turquoise waters and few paying customers around make for a seasonal affective disorder that saps one’s positive outlook and pocketbook.

Summer is the off season on St Croix. Why? you ask. One word: hurricanes. Big clouds with names aside, summer is still a good time to visit the Caribbean for three reasons.

No Crowds

Want the beach mostly to yourself? St Croix in the summer can grant you that wish. Kick back, relax and don’t forget the sunscreen—we’re a lot closer to the equator than you think.

Low Season Discounts

Prices go down in the low season and visitors enjoy all the amenities, tours and excursions for a lot less. So come snap up a bargain; discounts last through November.

Same Great Sites

The beach, the mountains, and the fresh salt air, all the natural beauty that the Virgin Islands have to offer remains on display year round.

I guess I should add a fourth reason. Based on the Weather Channel, St Croix is about ten degrees cooler (at least) than many parts of the continental US. Most visitors come to escape the winter, but few realize that an escape from summer mugginess is available, too. That said, what are you waiting for? My shameless promotional pitch, that's what.

Haypenny Rest is discounted from now through the end of November. Ask about the monthly flat rate.

Discover the top five reasons you should be in the US Virgin Islands—America’s Paradise.

1. No Passport Needed

Come to the Caribbean, your islands. Skip the lengthy wait for passports, St Thomas, St John and St Croix are US Territories so no passport is needed. Seems like a number of desperate travelers waiting for paperwork failed to realize the all the benefits of other Caribbean islands can be enjoyed on the U.S. Virgin Islands without the delay.

2. Direct Flights from the Mainland

American Airlines and Delta offer direct flights to St. Croix from Miami and Atlanta, respectively. American, Continental, Delta, United and US Airways offer flights to St. Thomas from the mainland.

Travel between islands is convenient. St John is a quick ferry trip from St Thomas. Ferries from downtown Charlotte Amalie and Red Hook embark for St John throughout the day and into the evening. Ferry service to St. Croix is also available. Sea planes fly a St Croix/St Thomas route typically every 20 minutes.

3. US Economy

Stay on the US economy and save the hassle of foreign currency exchange. Local banking ATMs abound, so accessing extra funds is easy. Best of all, no sales tax! Bring home duty free luxury goods, award winning Cruzan Rum and locally made handy-crafts.

4. Diversity

St Thomas, St John and St Croix offer travelers three unique experiences.

St Thomas has been a commercial center since colonial times. Luxury goods about for savvy shoppers wishing to take home duty free bounty. Night clubs and large scale resorts provide high energy travelers locations to live-it-up then kick back and relax.

St John boasts undeveloped land and spectacular views of the British Virgins. Two-thirds of the island is owned by the national part service. This lack of commercial development does not mean that beaches are empty. Travelers to St John may camp, yes, but the island also boasts high-end resorts with a laid back feel cater to those with deep pockets.

St Croix the quiet sister offers travelers beautiful beaches with a fraction of the crowds. Outdoor lovers may choose St Croix for kayaking, snorkeling and arguable some of the best scuba diving sites in the Caribbean. The largest island, St Croix also hosts a small rainforest with wonderful trails for hikers. St Croix’s fine dining and restaurant options are second to none, a treat after a day at the beach.

5. Cultural Experience

The rich history of the islands gives travelers a glimpse into a fascinating past: exploration, piracy, colonial rule and eventual US rule. The people of the Virgin Islands share their heritage eagerly. Learn about the people and culture that make America’s Paradise so special.

Come visit us at HaypennyRest.

Goodwill Gecko

Slithering up walls, resting on verandas, lounging poolside, brightly colored gecko sculptures reside on home and hoteliers throughout St Croix. These oversized, unnaturally decorated (I’ve yet to spy a purple, blue or pink gecko in the wild) are a whimsical tribute to the shy, chunky, rather plainly painted true species.

My husband and I snapped a shot of this little guy exposed when we removed our hurricane shutters. Seems we were not the only ones using them as shelter from the storm. Note the chunky toes, sure sign of a gecko.

The gecko sculptures found throughout retail stores in Christiansted are often advertised as comprised of recycled oil drums. Sculptures range in size from hand-sized to large, couple of feet wide elaborate tropical scenes. As typical the price increases with size and complexity of design. Local shop Tesoro advertises that three geckos on the home bring good luck. At less than $20 for three little guys, easily packed, tourists get a bargain on Crucian good fortune. And like everything on St Croix, of course, gecko sculptures are duty free.

Post Dean exhale (a few days late)

Dean brushed past us, thank goodness, bringing some rain, stronger than average winds and high surf. Considering the Caribbean tide heights vary so little that high and low tide reports do not exist here, Dean certainly affected the ocean landscape. Typically tranquil Fredericksted harbor (pictured in typical state) lurched and rolled and swelled over the sea wall and splashed on to the Strand Street park walking path.

The very next day; however, gorgeous, sunny serenity returned. Undisturbed by Dean, St Croix is ready and waiting for visitors.

Calm before the Storm

My apologies for the break in communication, but recent trips to the states and a house guest put the blog on the back burner. Tropical Storm Dean, predicted to become Hurricane Dean, prompts a long over due post.

As a child I resided about an hour from the Gulf of Mexico. Hurricanes brought high winds, often tornadoes, rain, power outages and relief from the oppressive heat. I am not under the delusion that this experience will at all prepare me for “riding out” a hurricane on an island.

Now, I own two emergency preparedness tubs inspired by a former employer’s SIP (shelter in place) tubs. One tub contains food stuffs and the other contains batteries, toiletries, utensils, flashlights and baby wipes. I purchased a weather radio with buttons for area specific U.S. government and NOAA reports.

I took a crack at installing our hurricane shutters (steel panels) and learned the hard way via a gashed ring finger that installation requires gloves. My first storm-related boo boo. I hope my last.

I plot Dean’s progression towards the Lesser Antilles on my hurricane tracking map taking some comfort that I am at least prepared.